Kerala & the South

Kerala has drawn explorers to her shores since 3000 BCE, when the Babylonians and Egyptians knew this coastal state as the ‘Spice Garden of India’. A stark contrast to the deserts of the north, Kerala is a world of houseboats and canoes drifting past emerald paddy fields and slow-paced village life. A few hours north lie the tea-growing region of Munnar, home to some of the world’s highest tea estates, and Periyar National Park, bounded by high mountain ridges. Both offer wonderful walks – through bountiful tea estates and thick jungle alive with wild elephants, leopards, a small tiger population and rich birdlife. The area is also famed for its spice gardens, where pepper, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom grow alongside plants used in Ayurvedic treatments – making this a perfect setting for yoga and Ayurveda-themed trips.

Kerala is also known for its vibrant dance heritage, above all ‘Kathakali’, a 500-year-old dance-drama interpreting ancient epics and recognised by UNESCO. Cochin (now Kochi) offers intimate spaces to watch not only the performances but also the artists applying their intricate make-up and costumes, a process that can take hours. An eclectic mix of Arab, Portuguese, Dutch, British and Jewish influences has shaped atmospheric Fort Cochin – don’t miss the iconic Chinese fishing nets dotting the harbour. This rich history lives on in Kerala’s cuisine: fiery, mouthwatering curries built on local spices, fresh seafood and coconut, found nowhere else in India.

Goa stands out for its swaying palms set against 15th-century Portuguese colonial architecture and endless beaches. Known for its laid-back, liberal attitude, there’s more here than sun, sand and sea. Crumbling forts and colourful cathedrals make up Old Goa, a joy to explore on foot and easily reached from the capital, Panjim. Its Indo-Portuguese cuisine and seafood are a major draw, and both coasts are dotted with intimate resorts offering yoga and wellness retreats.

Karnataka, south of Goa, is a clash of new age and ancient past. This vast state holds glittering palaces, national parks, beautiful beaches and yoga retreats. Its capital, Bangalore, showcases a progressive, hyper-paced India, while to the east the grandiose ruins of 14th-century UNESCO Hampi preserve over 1,600 remains of South India’s last great Hindu kingdom. The backwaters of the Kabini River teem with wildlife in summer, when receding waters form grassy meadows, and nearby Nagarhole National Park is among South India’s most beautiful.

The southernmost state, Tamil Nadu, is a kaleidoscope of India’s finest temples, architectural heritage and fiery cuisine. Take your pick from the pillared halls of Kanchipuram, the whitewashed churches and cobbled streets of French colonial Pondicherry, the sacred gopurams of Madurai, and the 19th-century mansions of Chettinad, beloved by foodies the world over.