Sometimes the most memorable journeys are the ones you haven’t planned.
My latest trip to Amritsar began in Delhi, where the family had gathered for my niece Tinni’s post-graduate convocation at Yashobhoomi. Once the celebrations were over, the idea of escaping for a few days suddenly came up. There were no train tickets available at such short notice, so we decided: why not drive?
My wife Debo, our son Ronnie and I have visited Amritsar sevmeteral times before, but always by train or air. A Delhi to Amritsar road trip was something new — and by 6am the following morning, five of us were packed into the car and heading towards Punjab.
It turned out to be a wonderful reminder of why I love travelling in India. Even after years of exploring the country and designing journeys for Enriching Journeys, there is always another road to take, another restaurant to discover and another experience that makes me look at a familiar destination differently.
Driving from Delhi to Amritsar
Amritsar is around 460 kilometres from Delhi and our drive took under eight hours, including three relaxed stops.
Rather than taking the more familiar route towards Murthal, we left West Delhi via Rohtak Road, travelling towards Patiala and onwards to Amritsar. For us, it was an excellent choice, with a combination of good expressways and state highways and relatively easy driving.
We stopped at Manzil in Kaithal for hot chai and buttery toast — and, importantly on any Indian road trip, clean restrooms!
If experiencing the famous highway dhabas around Murthal is part of the adventure, you may prefer the route via UER II and NH44. Personally, for a peaceful drive on this occasion, I was very happy with our choice.
Experiencing the Golden Temple at Dawn and Dusk
For our first night, I deliberately chose somewhere within easy walking distance of the Golden Temple, or Harmandir Sahib.
That location made all the difference.
We could step outside and walk to the temple rather than worry about navigating Amritsar’s traffic or parking. More importantly, it allowed us to experience the Golden Temple twice: once as evening descended and again in the tranquillity of the early morning.
However many times I visit, it remains deeply moving.
At dusk, the illuminated temple appears to float above the Amrit Sarovar, its reflection shimmering across the water as prayers echo around the complex. You don’t have to be Sikh — or particularly religious — to be affected by the atmosphere.
The langar, the temple’s community kitchen, is another essential part of understanding the Golden Temple. Thousands upon thousands of people are fed here without distinction of religion, background or status, with much of the work undertaken by volunteers. Seeing it in action is an extraordinary lesson in generosity and community.
For anyone asking me about the best things to do in Amritsar, I always say: don’t simply “see” the Golden Temple. Give it time. Visit at different times of day, sit quietly beside the water and absorb what is happening around you.
Jallianwala Bagh and the Wagah Border
Amritsar isn’t only about the Golden Temple and food. Its history is impossible to ignore.
At Jallianwala Bagh, the mood becomes understandably sombre. The memorial and museum tell the story of the 1919 massacre, and even though I had visited before, it remains a profoundly affecting place. For my sister, visiting for the first time, it was particularly emotional.
Later, the atmosphere changed completely as we travelled to the Attari-Wagah Border for the evening ceremony.
This is India at full volume: crowds, music, cheering and the extraordinary precision and theatre of the daily border-closing ceremony between India and Pakistan. We all became caught up in the energy — and the ladies even managed a celebratory selfie with one of the officers afterwards.
Serious history and exuberant spectacle within the same day: that contrast is very Amritsar.
Shopping for Phulkari, Spices and Punjabi Specialities
Travelling with family also meant there was absolutely no possibility of escaping Amritsar without shopping.
We headed to Mahajan for spices, nuts and aam papad rather than relying solely on the more tourist-oriented shops. Then came the serious business: Phulkari.
Punjab’s colourful traditional embroidery is something I always recommend looking out for in Amritsar, whether you want clothing, textiles or something smaller to take home. Watching the women disappear happily among mountains of fabrics while Ronnie and I waited was an experience in itself!
These are the moments I enjoy when travelling — finding good local shops, talking to people and seeing the everyday life of a city beyond its headline monuments.
Where to Eat in Amritsar: My Food Trail
Food alone is reason enough to travel to Amritsar.
Punjabi cuisine is famous around the world, but eating it here — often in simple establishments that have perfected a handful of dishes over generations — is completely different.
We took our responsibilities extremely seriously.
At Bhai Kulwant Singh Kulchian Wale, crisp Amritsari kulchas arrived generously topped with white butter and accompanied by chutneys. This may have converted me from some of my previous favourites.
Rana Fruit Cream in Lohgarh provided the sweet fix, with its gloriously indulgent combination of fresh fruit and cream.
Ronnie insisted we try Sundar Meat Shop, and he was right: the mutton chaap alone gave me another reason to return to Amritsar.
Then there was Makhan Fish and Chicken Corner, an Amritsar institution dating back to 1962. Amritsari fried fish is one of the city’s classic dishes, and here the crisp, spiced coating and delicate fish demonstrated exactly why.
We somehow still found room for peda lassi at Gian Di Lassi and jalebis from Gurdas Ram Jalebi Wala.
And, of course, I had to take the family to Kesar Da Dhaba. Its slow-cooked dal, ghee-rich lachha parathas and phirni served in traditional earthenware are the sort of Punjabi food that stays in your memory long after the meal has ended.
For travellers who enjoy discovering a destination through food, I would always build plenty of time into an Amritsar itinerary for these local institutions. Don’t make every meal a hotel meal. Some of India’s greatest culinary experiences happen in places that have been feeding local families for decades.
Adding a Little Luxury to an Amritsar Holiday
For our final two nights we moved to the Courtyard by Marriott on Mall Road, swapping our initial focus on proximity to the Golden Temple for greater comfort and a little indulgence.
After busy days exploring, having a good pool, spa and comfortable room was very welcome. I also enjoyed seeing the hotel embrace Punjabi food rather than simply offering an international luxury-hotel experience. On departure, the head chef personally encouraged us to try their signature Amritsari kulcha — as though we hadn’t eaten enough already!
It reinforced something I often tell Enriching Journeys guests: luxury travel in India doesn’t have to separate you from local life.
The best journeys combine excellent hotels, private transport and knowledgeable guides with authentic experiences outside the hotel — local restaurants, markets, neighbourhoods, craftspeople and spontaneous discoveries.
Why I Keep Returning to Amritsar
We eventually packed the car — considerably fuller than when we arrived — and began the drive back to Delhi.
What started as an impulsive family weekend had become one of those journeys we will talk about for years: early mornings, long conversations in the car, extraordinary food, family laughter and the quiet sense of reflection that comes from spending time at the Golden Temple.
I have travelled to Amritsar before, and I’m sure I will travel there again. That’s one of the pleasures of my work with Enriching Journeys. First-hand destination knowledge isn’t something you acquire once and then consider finished. India constantly changes, and every return visit reveals new hotels, restaurants, routes and experiences that I can then share with our guests.
And sometimes the discoveries are wonderfully simple: a better road from Delhi, a new favourite kulcha, or the reminder that the Golden Temple at dawn remains every bit as beautiful as I remembered it.
If you’re considering including Amritsar in a tailor-made holiday to India, I’d be delighted to help you plan it — and I have plenty of thoughts about where you should eat.
– Alok