In the bustling streets of Mumbai, where modernity races forward at breakneck speed, the city’s iconic Irani cafes stand as time capsules of a bygone era. These cafes, established by Persian immigrants who fled religious persecution in Iran during the 19th century, have been more than just eateries – they’ve been the soul of Bombay’s cosmopolitan culture for over a century.
The first wave of Irani cafes emerged in the 1890s, strategically positioned at street corners in prominent locations, often occupying the ground floors of colonial buildings. These Zoroastrian immigrants identified an opportunity to serve affordable food to the city’s growing working class, creating spaces that would democratically welcome people from all walks of life.
The architectural signature of these establishments is unmistakable: high ceilings, bentwood chairs imported from Poland, marble-topped tables, large mirrors with wooden frames, and glass jars filled with cookies and biscuits. Perhaps most distinctive are their Victorian-style entrance doors, featuring stained glass and intricate woodwork.
The menu at an Irani cafe is a unique fusion of Persian and Indian cuisines. Their brun maska (crusty bread with butter) paired with sweet chai remains legendary, while dishes like akuri (Parsi-style scrambled eggs), kheema pav (minced meat with bread), and berry pulao showcase the Persian influence. Their baked goods – particularly the mawa cake, apple pie, and nankhatai – have achieved cult status among Mumbaikars.
What made these cafes truly special was their role as democratic spaces in a hierarchical society. Whether you were a mill worker, office executive, student, or artist, everyone was welcome. They became meeting points for intellectuals, politicians, and artists, hosting countless conversations that shaped the city’s cultural landscape. The affordable prices, generous portions, and the characteristic gruff but endearing service of their owners added to their charm.
However, these cultural institutions are rapidly disappearing from Mumbai’s landscape. From over 550 cafes in the 1960s, fewer than 25 remain today. The reasons for their decline are manifold. The younger generations of Irani families, better educated and with different aspirations, show little interest in continuing the family business. Real estate pressure in prime locations has led many owners to sell or redevelop their properties. The rise of modern cafes and fast-food chains has also affected their business model, which relied on high volume and low margins.
Moreover, the changing social fabric of Mumbai has played a role. The decline of the city’s mill culture, which provided a steady stream of customers, and the shift in how people socialize and consume food have impacted these establishments.
Yet, the few remaining Irani cafes continue to resist change, maintaining their original charm and menu. Places like Yazdani, Kyani & Co., Britannia & Co., and B. Merwan still serve their legendary dishes, attracting both nostalgic old-timers and curious youngsters. They represent more than just eateries; they’re living museums of Mumbai’s cosmopolitan heritage, reminding us of a time when life moved at a gentler pace and community spaces fostered real connections.
As Mumbai races towards modernization, these cafes stand as poignant reminders of the city’s multicultural soul, making their preservation not just about saving restaurants, but about protecting an essential piece of Mumbai’s identity.